The theme was Handcrafted Chicago, and believe me, it delivered. Think candlelit catwalks, cathedral architectural intimacy, and a crowd that looked like they’d stepped off the pages of a moody indie zine and onto a couture cloud. As the DJ spun velvet-rich beats—equal parts house, soul, and late-’90s nostalgia—the runway lit up with fierce beauty, innovation, and raw, unapologetic craftsmanship. The fashion show included a special performance by talented musical artist Khaliyah X, sounds by Preme, a rising DJ in the midwest, and a special thank you from a Chicago native designer and local icon Barbara Bates.

If fashion had a time machine, it made a dramatic landing at the Epiphany Center for the Arts last Saturday in the city of Chicago.

The occasion? Retrograde—a name that conjures planetary mischief, starry alignments, and yes, a bold step backward to move swiftly and , defiantly forward. In a space where stained glass flirted with spotlights and neoclassical arches gave runway to revolution, seven designers reimagined the threads of time with unapologetic elegance and couture.

As the sun dipped beneath the gothic spires of Chicago's West Loop, the city’s fashion pulse could be felt echoing within the hallowed halls of the Epiphany Center for the Arts. It was an evening where legacy met local, craft met culture, and style got spiritual.

The show took place in a space where exposed brick met soft spotlights and a low ceiling of rustic beams hugged the intimacy of the runway, the historical cathedral offered a hidden underground getaway. Personifying an urban loft somewhere between Brooklyn energy and Berlin edge, this was a sacred environment where fashion told stories with every step.

Lit by the amber glow of historical cathedral lights and reverberating with the soulful soundscape of Preme, the evening was a curated communion of couture and culture rather than a runway event. But then again, when Chicago decides to throw a fashion fête, it does so with grit, soul, and a signature midwestern wink. The theme? Retrograde. The result? Nothing short of redefining the order in which we understand what is to be expected and what actually occurs.

As I sipped a slightly too-strong Negroni and watched the crowd—a tapestry of avant-garde creatives, slow-fashion evangelists, and the kind of effortlessly cool locals you only find when you stop Googling and start wandering—I felt something electric. Chicago wasn’t just hosting a fashion event. It was claiming a fashion identity.

The evening showcased seven designers, each an optimal ode to the city, stitched in individuality and worn with intent. From classic cool to stitched subversion, Chicago's next wave didn’t just show up—they showed out.

And accessorizing the spotlight? Tyler Morgan Studios, a name already buzzing louder than a vintage Singer sewing machine at midnight. Known for her handbags that blur the line between utility and poetry, Morgan’s new structured collection was supple simplicity colored in hues of sunset serenity, complimenting the catwalk’s L-train rivets and cathedral window curves. One model carried an asymmetrical sleek grey clutch that made me question every handbag I’ve ever owned. (Note to self: call my editor about a handbag intervention.)

Stan R: The Architect of Allure

The show opened with quiet authority. Opening designer was Stan R, who sent models down the runway like shadowy angels in architectural silhouettes and fabrics that whispered secrets under the lights. Rogers, long known among insiders for his architectural approach to fashion, debuted a collection rooted in geometry and grit. Think structured trenches with sharp shoulder lines, modernized scarves draped over cool leather staples. Roger’s deconstructed tailoring nodded subtly to Mies van der Rohe. It was a breath of elevated streetwear for the city’s most fashionable.

Syx Stitch: Stitching the Stars

Syx Stitch served astrology, ancestry, and allure with a collection that felt like your zodiac chart got a high-fashion makeover. Syx is what happens when craftsmanship falls in love with cosmic drama. If you looked closely, you could see the soul in every seam. Syx Stitch—known for handcrafted, one-of-a-kind garments—brought a collection that felt like a tropical island getaway, a midsummer’s night dream, stitched by hand. From miniskirts to halter tops, this Y2k- inspired offered handcrafted corsets and raw-edge minis that was an electrifying critique of heteronormativity—subversive, cheeky, and defiantly inclusive. Syx Stich’s look of rainbow fringe and matching red sandals gave a celebratory spin that felt more than runway-ready—it was revolution-ready, sashaying with sass and purpose. A crochet dress melted the runway in a warm palette of deep fuchsia, cherry, and coral. Hugging curves and radiating summer softness, this piece whispered bohemian seduction. A plunging neckline and backless design made it flirtatious, while the handwoven texture grounded it in artisanal craft. Syx Stitch’s collection embodied the sass of summertime and celebrates feminine grace through handcrafted, one-of-a-kind custom pieces.

Star Market Chi: Streetwear as Spectacle

Next in the show was Star Market Chi, a designer who took streetwear, kissed it with couture, and sent it back onto the runway looking reborn. Graffiti textures, bold logos, and layered textures turned everyday fabrics into statement pieces. Star Market Chi proved that fashion doesn't have to whisper—it can shout, sing, and strut. Think varsity jackets cut like capes, denim reimagined as sculpture, and the kind of boots that dare you not to stare. The collection blurred the boundaries between fashion and fantasy. Models wore layers that felt like they’d been plucked from the closet of a time-traveling poet—think oversized knitwear, metallic foil textiles, and an obsessive love for layering that screamed Gen Z maximalism in the best way possible.

Emonye Designs: Drama in Motion

Every collection needs its diva moment, and Emonye Designs delivered the drama with a capital D. Ruffles. Sheers. Cuts that demanded runway attendants and attention. Her aesthetic flirted with romantic decadence but grounded itself in unapologetic femininity. Picture a Victorian ghost who discovered Gucci and never looked back. Elegant and elemental, Emonyé Designs brought drama with purpose. Silhouettes sculpted to celebrate every curve, with textures ranging from velvet to liquid organza. One high-slit gown in obsidian black literally stopped conversation—and that’s saying something, because Chicagoans don’t stop talking. Emonye doesn’t just design gowns; she scripts stories in tulle and organza.

COPE Apparel: Street Savvy, Reborn

Just when you thought you’d seen it all, COPE Apparel shattered the mold with pieces that screamed street couture with Ivy League polish. Hooded capes trimmed in brocade, genderless tailoring, and oversized silhouettes made you wonder: if our future is retro, is comfort the new rebellion? There was a moment—an emerald green utility corset paired with cargo taffeta pants—that had the audience audibly gasping. Grit met gloss, and it was glorious. Here’s where things got nostalgic. COPE Apparel brought the early 2000s back—but smarter, sleeker, and more self-aware. Imagine neon-embellished crop tops, track suits, and handpainted motifs elevated to high art. Y2K was never this chic. If Carrie Bradshaw ever dated a boy band member, this is what she would’ve worn to brunch after the breakup.

Tindera: The Future is Femme

If cyberpunk and Afro-futurism had a sartorial love affair, Tindera officiated the wedding. Sculptural bodices, metallic textures, and silhouettes that defied logic—this was wearable tech-meets-tribal royalty. One piece—a copper breastplate over a translucent silk sheath—made you rethink everything you know about “ready to wear.” Tindera isn’t following trends. She’s decoding the fashion of tomorrow.

TINDERA, whose fur-trimmed aesthetic and ski-spired sunglasses brought commanding confidence that offered a cure for any in the crowd who might be cold. A redefining moment of retrograde included a model stunned in a black vinyl bikini-style top paired with a razor-sharp micro mini skirt. The look was part dominatrix, part modern club maven—a powerful take on sensuality with raw confidence, contrasting to the designer’s other very layered looks on the runway. Thin, asymmetric straps and shimmering chains accentuated her torso, creating a silhouette that felt both stripped down and armor-like. Glossed skin, sky-high heels, and structured mini handbags from Tyler Morgan Studios completed the ferocious fantasy. This wasn’t just about baring skin—it was about owning it. The result? A thrilling cultural flirtation that felt both ancient and next-century.

Raeted R: The Anti-Minimalist

In a world flirting with normcore and quiet luxury, Raeted R marched to the beat of maximalist glam. Flames, fringe, and unexpected cutouts marked a collection that was part 90s R&B video, part galactic prom. Think Missy Elliott meets Mugler. There was a moment when a model in a spraypainted tank and cascading miniskirt caught the light and the room actually paused. Raeted R is not for the faint-hearted—and thank goddess for that. Concluding out the runway was Raeted R, a former graffiti artist turned textile alchemist creative director. This collection’s patchwork denim—some spray-painted, some stitched with spoken-word lyrics—proved precedence like wearable Chicago poetry. Each model walked not just with attitude, but with authorship.

Conclusion

Just when the night closed out the collections on the catwalk, a ripple moved through the crowd: Barbara Bates, Chicago’s own fashion matriarch, made a surprise guest appearance. For young designers raised on her legacy, her presence felt like a benediction—quiet, regal, and electric.

As the last heel echoed off the polished floor, one thing was clear— Chicago’s fashion talent is no longer lurking in the shadows. The casting reflected an honest slice of contemporary Chicago talent, and the designs—each unapologetic in its own voice—brought forth a reminder: boldness isn’t seasonal. It’s eternal.

But what really stitched the night together wasn’t just talent. It was intention. Every designer honored their city—not just the skyline or the snowstorms, but the people, the passion, the pulse. It was a show that felt like Chicago: bold, imperfect, ingenious.

As I stood under the soaring beams of the Epiphany chapel-turned-catwalk, surrounded by laughter, denim, silk, leather, and the lingering scent of palo santo, I realized something: New York might have the gloss, Paris the pedigree, and Milan the drama. But Chicago? Chicago has the heart.

In a world racing toward the digital and disposable, is the true future of fashion rooted in what’s made by just that- the heart- by hand and right at home? If last night was any indication, the answer is indubitably yes—and Chicago just might be the city to lead us there. And maybe, just maybe, fashion’s next great renaissance isn’t happening in a global marketplace —it’s being stitched, sung, and spun right here in the Midwest, by hands that know the feel of fabric, the weight of work, and the joy of creation.

And as I parted final ways with the Epiphany Center under a full moon and a haze of glamour-induced euphoria, I couldn’t help but wonder: is Retrograde a movement, or merely a memory waiting to repeat itself?  In a world of fast fashion and fleeting trends, is handcrafted the new haute?

Whatever it is, Chicago competes for the new capital of high fashion rebellion—and Retrograde? That’s its runway to the stars. Reversing the rhetoric in which we raise the reverence to all ready-to-wear original designs.

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Ariana West, Fashion Correspondent and Chicago’s own Couture Heartbeat Columnist, spotted at the Handcrafted Chicago Reverie at Epiphany Center for the Arts

Styling: Mixed Designer Showcase | Words by Barbara Bates and @raetedrcreativeco*

The theme was Handcrafted Chicago, and believe me, it delivered. Think candlelit catwalks, cathedral architectural intimacy, and a crowd that looked like they’d stepped off the pages of a moody indie zine and onto a couture cloud. As the DJ spun velvet-rich beats—equal parts house, soul, and late-’90s nostalgia—the runway lit up with fierce beauty, innovation, and raw, unapologetic craftsmanship. The fashion show included a special performance by talented musical artist Khaliyah X, sounds by Preme, a rising DJ in the midwest, and a special thank you from a Chicago native designer and local icon Barbara Bates.”